Chimney leak repair in Little Rock for flashing, crowns and crickets

Water that shows up on a ceiling or wall next to a chimney can enter at several points. The flashing around the base is the most common, but the top of the chimney, the brick itself and the roof area behind the chimney all cause leaks too. Fixing the wrong one means the stain comes back after the next storm.

We check each possible source in order, starting from the top of the chimney and working down, because water entering high up can travel inside the chimney and appear at the base, looking exactly like a flashing leak.

• Step flashing along the sides, woven into the shingle courses
• Counterflashing set into the mortar joints and lapping over the step flashing
• Front apron flashing at the downhill face
• Cracked or missing chimney crown on top of the brick
• Missing or damaged chimney cap allowing rain straight down the flue
• Porous brick and failing mortar joints soaking up wind-driven rain
• No cricket on the uphill side of a wide chimney

A cricket, sometimes called a saddle, is a small peaked roof built on the uphill side of a chimney. It splits water flowing down the slope and sends it around the chimney instead of letting it pool against the back. Wider chimneys especially need one, and many older homes were built without it.

Without a cricket, water and debris pile up against the back of the chimney. Leaves and pine needles collect there, hold moisture and wear out the flashing and shingles faster than anywhere else on the roof. That uphill side is one of the most common leak points we find on Little Rock chimneys.

Adding a cricket involves framing a small structure, sheathing it, installing underlayment and then flashing and shingling it into the roof. It is a bigger job than resealing, but it removes the cause instead of treating the symptom.

A chimney that has been leaking for a while can also leave damage beyond the stain you see. Framing around the chimney chase, the decking at its base and insulation in the attic can all hold moisture, so we look at those areas closely during every chimney inspection.

• Water stains on the ceiling or wall next to the chimney
• Thick roof cement or caulk smeared around the chimney base
• Damp, musty smell in the fireplace on rainy days
• Cracks across the concrete crown on top of the chimney
• White chalky staining on the outside brick
• Leaves and needles piling up behind the chimney

Brick and mortar are more porous than many homeowners realize. Wind-driven rain soaks into old brick and soft mortar joints, and that water can work its way down inside the chimney to the roof line. If flashing looks sound but the leak persists, the masonry is often the culprit.

The crown, the concrete or mortar cap on top of the brick, sheds water off the chimney top. Crowns crack with age and freeze-thaw cycles, letting water straight into the masonry. A metal chimney cap over the flue keeps rain, debris and animals out of the chimney itself.

Our crew handles the roof side of chimney leaks, including flashing, counterflashing, crickets, crowns and caps. If we find structural masonry problems that call for a mason, such as a leaning chimney or brick that needs rebuilding, we tell you that plainly and explain what we saw.

Metal chimney chases, common on homes with prefabricated fireplaces, have their own weak point: the flat metal chase cover on top. Those covers rust and pool water over time, especially when they were built without a slight slope, and a rusted chase cover can send water straight down the inside of the chase.

Summers in Little Rock put chimney flashing through daily heat cycles. Metal expands in the afternoon sun and contracts at night, while the brick moves at a different rate. Over years, that movement loosens counterflashing and cracks any sealant at the joint between metal and masonry.

Spring storm season, roughly March to June, then drives rain sideways into those gaps. Many chimney leaks only appear during wind-blown downpours, which is why homeowners sometimes go months without a sign and then see a stain after one severe storm.

Winter freeze-thaw cycles are hard on crowns and mortar. Water soaks into small cracks, freezes, expands and widens them. Occasional ice storms make this worse, and a crown that was hairline-cracked in fall can be letting in real water by spring.

Once we have traced the source, the repair matches it. For flashing leaks, we remove the shingles around the chimney, take out the old step and apron flashing and install new pieces woven into each course. Counterflashing is cut into a mortar joint with a grinder and sealed, rather than glued to the face of the brick.

Crown cracks are sealed or the crown is rebuilt depending on condition. Missing caps are replaced. For porous brick, a breathable masonry water repellent can reduce absorption. Where a cricket is needed, we frame and flash one into the roof.

You get photos of the old flashing or crown and the finished repair, along with a clear explanation of what caused the leak.

If the chimney is no longer used, some homeowners ask whether it makes more sense to remove it below the roof line and deck over the opening. That can be a good option in some cases, and we can talk through what it involves and how it compares with a full repair.

Chimney leak repair cost depends on which source we find and how large the chimney is. These are typical 2026 Little Rock ranges.

Chimney width, roof pitch, mortar condition and whether a cricket is needed change the price most. See the full roof pricing guide.